Below are a few tips & mods you can perform on your car. If you have a car care tip you would like to share with the club, please send your tips to our Tech Advisor.

Disclaimer:
We make every effort to ensure accuracy and quality of the information provided on web site; However, except where specifically noted, the information on this site is not factory approved by Mazda. The information presented on this web site represent the opinions of the individual contributors. No representation is made regarding the accuracy or reliability of any information contained on any of these pages.CFMC, the sponsors and advertisers of these pages, or any of the individual contributors accept any liability for the consequences of using the information presented on these pages.

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Why Mazda did so well and Volvo so poorly in Consumer Reports survey – by AutoBlog

The poor performances of Tesla and all three domestic automakers got the headlines in Consumer Reports magazine’s latest reliability survey, but there were other results that caught our interest.
Tiny Mazda notched the biggest gain among the 29 brands included in this year’s list, leap-frogging nine spots to No. 3. Buick, which was in the top 10 last year, fell 11 spots to No. 19, the biggest decline of any brand. And then there’s Volvo, a brand often vaunted for its quality and reliability, dropping six spots to dead last. What gives?

For starters, all three brands benefited or suffered in large part due to their relatively small portfolio of vehicles. So when raves or complaints rolled in for even one particular model, as was often the case, it weighed heavily on the entire brand. That’s especially true when it involves a relatively high-volume, hot-selling model such as the Buick Enclave (more on that in a moment). Mazda fared as well as it did despite the CX-3 losing Consumer Reports’ influential “recommended” status due to problems with its climate system, including leaks from the condenser and refrigerant unit that triggered a service bulletin from the automaker in late 2016. Deputy auto editor Jon Linkov said that scratch didn’t hurt the overall brand, since the CX-9 crossover and MX-5 Miata both jumped up to replace it on CR’s list of newly recommended vehicles, thanks to several back fixes Mazda made to both models.

from
AUTOBLOG

 

How Revolutionary was the Mazda Miata in 1989?

(This article is from Popular Mechanics.)

It’s hard to think about the original Mazda Miata without considering what it is today, nearly 30 years after its introduction. After all, it’s the default choice today for a cheap, light, simple sports car, perfect for just about everything from daily driving to club racing. But obviously, the NA was once a new car, and it’s valuable to day to consider what it went up against when new.
As this old MotorWeek video reminds us, when the Miata arrived in 1989, you could buy a new Alfa Romeo Spider or a Toyota MR-2; the Pontiac Fiero had only just gone out of production, and Nissan had the 240SX. So you weren’t lacking choice for rear-wheel drive sports cars in the day.
And yet, the Miata blew all of them away. “The Miata will make MR-2 and Fiero owners understand that it takes a lot more than two seats and a sunroof to make a true sports car,” Motorweek’s John Davis said.
A key to the NA ‘s success was that it was designed from the outset as a sports car. It didn’t borrow its chassis from any other car in the Mazda lineup, and while its 1.6-liter four-cylinder came from the 323 economy car, it got four-valve heads and dual-overhead cams for better, more responsive performance.
Mazda paid attention to the details on this car, and it showed. Davis summed up the car well in his rather prophetic ending to this review:
“By mixing the fun of yesterday’s roadsters with the technology of today, it marks a giant leap forward in the evolution of the sports car,” he said. “And it will go down in automotive history as the car that saved the roadster from near-extinction.”
Nearly 30 years after this review was aired, and with the Miata still in production and great as ever, we can’t say he was wrong.

Tech Column – Mazda Says Its Next-Generation Gasoline Engine Will Run Cleaner Than an Electric Car

Mazda hopes to achieve 56 percent thermal efficiency with the Skyactiv-3 gasoline engine. That would make it the most efficient internal-combustion car engine in history.
Mazda is staking much of its future on the continued existence of the internal-combustion engine, with clever tech like spark-controlled compression ignition set to debut in Mazda’s next-generation production-car engine, Skyactiv-X. But the automaker is already thinking even further into the internal-combustion future. Automotive News reports that Mazda is working on a new gas engine, Skyactiv-3, which the automaker says will be as clean as an electric vehicle.

Speaking at a tech forum in Tokyo, Mazda’s power train chief Mitsuo Hitomi said that the main goal with Skyactiv-3 is to increase the engine’s thermal efficiency to roughly 56 percent. If achieved, that would make the Skyactiv engine the first internal-combustion piston engine to turn the majority of its fuel? s energy into power, rather than waste due to friction or heat loss.

To date, the most thermally efficient automotive internal combustion engine belongs to Mercedes-AMG’s Formula 1 team, with an efficiency of 50 percent; AMG hopes the F1-derived engine in the Project One street-legal supercar will achieve 41-percent thermal efficiency, which would make it the most thermally efficient production-car engine in history. Automotive News says Mazda’s 56-percent goal would represent a 27-percent improvement over current Mazda engines. Hitomi didn’t provide a timeline for when Skyactiv-3 would reach production, nor did he specify how Mazda hopes to achieve such an improvement.

Mazda’s claim, that Skyactiv-3 would be cleaner to run than an all-electric vehicle, is a bold one, and requires some unpacking. Mazda bases the assertion on its estimates of “well-to-wheel” emissions, tallying the pollution generated by both fossil fuel production and utility electricity generation to compare Skyactiv-3 and EV emissions. Such analysis reflects the reality that, currently, much electricity is generated through fossil fuels. In regions where electricity comes from wind, solar, or hydroelectric, the EV would clearly win the argument, but that’s not the case for many customers today.

Tech Column – Paul Reinmann

Saturday Feb 4 Tech Day at Stevenson Miata had the highest member attendance There were 18 Miatas piloted by 19 members, one was a co-pilot. Everyone was able to get their requested maintenance done while several had successful troubleshooting performed. I await feedback on these performance enhancements and will post in a later Ragtop Tales issue.

We had a great time socializing among ourselves with many staying beyond their own cars’ service time. Pizza was great and the weather allowed for nice top-down driving, to and from Stevenson.

Please take note we have an option to add another Tech Day event in three or six months.

John Wigger, the service manager, is willing to have us anytime. Perhaps we could consider this as a recurring event every quarter? Please give me your feedback.

Tech Column by Paul Reinmann

My top replacement, 3X and counting…
My rag top has now been replaced three times due to rips at the pull straps that help fold the top when putting it down. That means I now have the third new replacement top. I thought all was well when (Play the music from Jaws) I found this top now ripping again in the same place. I notified the shop and await their response.
One question to you is do you have a soft top and what is the condition of your pull straps? I have to wonder if these tend to rip part way and then stop. In this case no one would notice as the top would still fold nicely when going down regardless of the straps ripped partly. I am a stickler for expecting things to work as they should. I am not giving up on this! Your input will help me understand this.
To check the condition of your straps, open the top to about the balance point and look at each side. At the crease point there is the strap pulling the top to a fold. Look carefully to see the pull straps. See attached pictures to see how mine have ripped.

SKYACTIV-X New Engine Technology
Mazda is exploring a new technology in engine design. They call it SKYACTIV-X; a compression ignition engine they say is coming soon. When In MX5? No news on this yet.
Basically a compression ignition engine is how a diesel engine operates. No spark plugs, the energy of compression ignites the fuel. Instead of timing spark as in a gasoline engine, the combustion in a compression ignition engine is timed by the injection of the fuel.

See links for more detailed info.

http://www.zoomzoommag.com/winter2017?utm_source=email1&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign= groupone#!mazda-skyactiv-x-engine
https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2019-mazda-3-withskyactiv-x-compression-ignition-gas-engine-prototype-drivereview

How to Wash Your Car like a Pro by Tom Pane

There is much more to washing and waxing when it comes to cleaning and protecting your vehicle’s paint.

If you care about your car’s exterior, you will avoid those quickie car washes with the big brushes that can do more harm than good and do a DIY car wash that will achieve the best results.

Most people think a wash and wax is the best way to keep their car shiny and clean. Their heart is in the right place, but there is much more to washing a car than those two things.

I regularly hand wash my 2012 Mazda MX-5 using a water-hose with a suitable high pressure setting except near the PRHT which requires a soft shower setting to rinse off dust and lose dirt. I then use one product to wash and wax using cleaning mitt. However, one can wash with soap and water and wax later.

1 Evaluate the Condition of Your Vehicle

Evaluating the condition or your vehicle will steer you towards how it should be cleaned. A new car or one that already has a good coat of wax on it may only need a wash and wax to maintain it, but a car with an average to neglected exterior may need to be cleaned and polished as well.

2 Read the Label

Before using any type of car cleaning chemical, it is important to read the label. The application for soap, wax, or detailer can vary from brand to brand and vehicle to vehicle. For example, using a chrome wheel cleaner which is extremely acidic on an aluminum wheel can ruin it. Also invest in premium microfiber clothes and keep separate pile for those used on your paint, wheels and windows. Wash your towels and cleaning mitts after every use.

3 Washing your Car 

Washing your car will remove loose contaminants such as dust, dirt and mud from the exterior of your vehicle. Always use a car washing soap and not a liquid detergent or dish cleaner which can damage the paint and strip away wax. Rinse your car first to remove larger pieces of dirt which can scratch your car when washing, and use clean mitts and drying cloths. I use a combination of chamois and plush microfiber cloths to dry my cars. Most important is to wash your wheels first! This will help prevent break dust and other wheel contaminants from getting on the painted surfaces.

4 Prepare the Surface 

After washing you can easily see scratches, swirls, and oxidation in your paint. Feel for bonded contaminants such as overspray or tree sap that washing doesn’t remove. Just run you hand over a washed vehicle, and if you can feel little bumps, then you need to a step further with cleaning your car.

A clay bar can be used to remove stubborn bonded contaminants. It will remove everything off the surface of your vehicle including wax and will restore smoothness to the paint. Start by kneading it into a flat wafer and use a detailer as a lubricant. Hold it in the palm of one hand and run it across the surface of your car. To remove scratches and etching that are below the surface you will need to use a compound that can be applied by hand using applicator pads or by using a dual-action polisher. Wipe away soon after applying. A compound paint cleaner needs to be worked into the finish and can sometimes require a 2nd, 3rd, or even a 4th application. Some scratches are too deep and only a paint touch-up will repair them.

5 Polishing for Extra Gloss

This step is optional and can be compared to applying lotion on your skin. Polish can be applied by hand or with a dual-action polisher. The conditioning oils add depth of color and maximum gloss prior to waxing, especially on dark colored vehicles.

6 Wax to Protect

Waxing is like sunscreen for your car. It adds a layer of protection from UV rays to prevent fading as well as anything that may land on the paint. It preserves your high gloss finish and is available in a carnauba or polymer form. Both types of wax perform the same, but a polymer wax won’t haze as it dries and can usually be wiped off soon after applying. The choice between using carnauba or polymer wax is similar to choosing synthetic or regular engine oil. Polymer is a bit more expensive but is easier to apply and may perform better.

7 Maintain a Shine and Protection

After you’ve done the hard work of washing, cleaning and protecting your car, you will need to take steps to maintain its appearance. Keep a spray detailer and clean microfiber cloth in your trunk, which can come in handy for quickly removing dust, overspray and bird droppings. I also use a special microfiber car duster to remove dust that may accumulate between washings.

If your car is relatively clean and all of these steps seem daunting and time consuming, one-step cleaner/wax may be the best choice for you. It is my first choice for sure.

8 Clean the Windows

Stay away from Windex and other household glass cleaners as they usually contain ammonia which can damage a car’s window tint. Use an auto window cleaner for best results and wipe down twice to ensure the cleaner is removed.

9 Clean the Wheels (first)

Wash first. If you need something stronger than car soap, then the most important wheel cleaning tip I have is to use a product that has been specifically formulated for your type of wheel. If you don’t know what type of wheels you have, than go with the least powerful version which is an acid-free pH balanced aluminum wheel cleaner as these can be used on all type of wheels, so I am told.

Happy motoring!

Note: Much of the above information came from articles posted in Popular Mechanics and Automotive Engineering as well as YouTube videos. However, the magazine articles have been significantly edited for the RTT newsletter and include the editor’s personal experience on this subject. All the materials, cleaners, etc. that I have discussed in this article can be found in Griot’s Garage Handbook (griotsgarage.com).

A Tech Day Follow-up by Ken Schiess

Those CFMC members who participated in Tech Day at Stevenson Mazda may remember that Ken had complained that he was experiencing a vibration while driving his Miata. He learned that day that it was rooted in two of his aluminum wheels (see the March issue of Ragtop Tales). Below is his follow-up to that event.

Two of my wheels appeared to be oval when we ran them on the balance machine at Stevenson. That would have explained the vibration I was feeling between 45 and 55 mph.  So I had Stevenson get them straightened. It was cheaper with the club discount than if I took them to the wheel guy myself, probably due to the professional discount that Stevenson gets but cheaper is cheaper (Thank you Stevenson Mazda).  Anyway that pretty much solved the vibration issue but since I needed tires anyway I went ahead and replaced them with fresh balancing and four wheel alignment. Now there is no vibration at all.

On the subject of tires; I had Falken Z912’s on the car for the past 19,000 miles. They are a great high performance tire. They stick well but I don’t tend to drive that aggressively so the short comings of a harsh ride, noise and complete wear down to the wear bars in 19,000 miles seemed an excessive trade off. I have replaced them with General Altimax RT 43 Grand Touring tires. They are MUCH quieter, ride better, especially over tar strips and other uneven surfaces but are slightly slower to respond to steering inputs. But only slightly and they tend to stick tight enough for anything I do with the car.

I’ll give you an update on the tires in a year or two when I have 5,000 or 10,000 miles on them

Tech Column by Paul Reinmann

SOFT TOP REPLACEMENT

So, this top replacement was actually done by a shop in Wilmington. If anyone wants to know how to do it yourself there are lots of videos on the Miata Forum. Most admit it takes over 20 hours with no prior experience. Mine took two hours; one hour to drop the car off and one to pick it up…

I decided my 2008 Miata was ready for a top replacement when I had patched many spots on my original vinyl top and then when removing a leaf at the rear edge, put my thumb nail partially thru the fabric. This showed me how degraded the material was. While it still did not leak during rain I decided to replace it now before it did.

First I visited my trusty Miata Forum for tips, not just how to replace the top but for the right materials too.

I chose to use a cloth top instead of vinyl mainly to give it a try. It will require treatment with water repellent every 6 months or so using a

product called 303 Fabric Guard or equivalent. Some people I talked to said that a cloth top was better at opening and closing in cooler weather than vinyl. I read differing opinions. Some said Robbins was the best while others liked EZ Top better. Upholstery 1 Trim told me they use both and didn’t see a difference. I think mine is a Robbins top.

I don’t have indoor space and replacement takes a few days, so I decided to use a local shop. I contacted four shops with prices ranging from $1,300 – $1,800. All these shops are experienced in this work, so no first timers. I chose Upholstery 1 Trim located in Dutch Square in Wilmington. When I asked them how many Miata tops they have done they asked: “In this year?” They have done about 10 just this year and have been in business 30 years.

I dropped the car off on a Monday morning and they had it done the next day at 3pm. All looked good and they cautioned me to not open the top for 2-3 weeks because the cloth material needed to stretch out. I did wait two weeks. When opening the new top it was a bit tight, but not so bad closing. I assume it will loosen a bit more over time.

While the replacement was at the half way point I visited their shop to clean my rain drains and take some pictures. They allowed me in and also let me use their shop vac. My rain drain areas have a blue filter material installed by Stevenson Mazda. This was required when I experienced problems with a soggy trunk and interior floor areas which were caused by rain drains clogged with tree debris. Apparently the previous owner parked the car under trees. These drains were filthy dirty. I removed these filters and ran a coronet brush down the drain tubes as far as I could. The brush wasn’t long enough to poke out the bottom. I have heard a trombone brush is the

thing for this job. Anyway, we blew compressed air down the drains and also vacuumed all around the drain areas before reinstalling the filters.

They finished the installation and water tested the top area prior to calling me to pick her up. All done in little over a day and a half. So far it has been a month now with no problems. Please see the pictures showing drain location. The big area circled is the whole drain on the right side. The smaller circle is the top of the drain tube.

Soft Top Zipper Care

Do you know the best way to take care of the zipper on your 90-97 Miata’s rear window? When opening your top, you should always unzip the window before lowering it to protect the sensitive plastic window from being damaged. If you already do this, great! However did you know that there is also a way to help protect your zipper from damage? It’s important to unlatch your top to relieve the tension before unzipping or zipping your rear window. And when you are raising the top, stop just short of latching it and zip up your window first. That way, you don’t zip the window in under tension. Hopefully many of you are already doing this, but we’ve seen enough fellow Miata owners who don’t…so we hope this helps! 

Mazda In-Dash 6 CD Changer/Cassette/Radio Installation for 90-97 Miata

This tech tip gives step-by-step instructions on how to install and Mazda in-dash 6 CD Changer/Cassette/Radio in a 90-97 Mazda Miata.

A special thanks goes out to the following Miata.net folks for their contributions in helping develop this resource:

Drake A. Daum aka MVMC Nr 1
Santa Rosa Steve
Mitro aka John
Chet99
Ray aka BLK92c
Kevin Morrison
and many more….

  • m1 90-93 requires some minor cutting of center console bezel and radio.
  • m1 94-97 may require some minor cutting depending on model year. You can avoid doing any cutting by purchasing a center console bezel for a base 97 miata part # NB38-55-210A 00 which will fit this radio perfectly.
  • A VERY small jeweler’s screwdriver
  • #2 Phillips screwdriver, regular length and a “stubby”
  • Dremel tool and some cutter/router/grinder bits
  • Wire cutter or knife
  • pliers
  • hammer
  • tape measure or ruler
  • about 12″ of 12v electrical wire
  • some male spade connectors
  • a T-tap splice connector
  • 2 sheet metal screw
  • 4 3MX6 pan head screws
  • some foam padding (optional)

Where can I buy one of these units?
Ebay is your best bet. Search for “Mazda CD” There should be several units for sale.

What is included with the unit?
The unit includes the unit itself and a wire harness to the radio.

How big is the unit?
See description below for dimensions.

Does the FADE control work with the headrest speaker?
Yes.

Does the unit play MP3 CD’s?
No.

Does the unit play CDR’s?
Yes.

Does the tuner on the unit go down to 87.7?
Yes.

Does the unit have RCA output jacks?
No.

How many watts does the internal amp have?
According to reviews of the unit and sales literature the unit has 190watts.

What color does the control buttons on the unit illuminate?
Green. See photo below.

Is there a users manual for this unit?
No.

Can I use the existing mounting brackets from the OEM Radio?
Yes, but it does require modifications to either the bracket or the radio.

Where can I get more information about this install?
Go here http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=157802&highlight=cape+fear+club

Other Installation photos can be found at http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=srs&album_id=119501

A review of a similiar unit found in the Mazda Tribute review http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/roadtest/45132/page003.html

Made in Japan by Matsushita

Communication Industrial Co. Ltd. Yokohama Japan

Model No: YL84 18C868-AC
Size: DOUBLE DIN 6 CDs IN-DASH CHANGER+CASSETTE+RADIO
The plastic face measures 7.5″Wx4.625″Hx0.5″D and the metallic body measures 7.0″Wx4.5″Hx6.625″D

radio-front-viewradio-rear-view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

radio-front radio-label